Workshop Maintenance Made Easy

Tell me if you can relate: once I get going on a project, I kind of slip into tunnel-vision mode.
"The Zone", if you will. I don't like to get distracted because I'm totally immersed in designing, building, and problem-solving.  That's the kind of stuff that got me into woodworking in the first place.  And once I'm done, I usually jump right into the next project.  This is a really rewarding cycle, of course, because it maximizes the amount that I can get done, but there's a downside- a dirty little secret, let's say.  After all this time, I'm ready to come clean about it:  I'm not so hot at tool maintenance.  I blame it on being busy, but that's not really a good enough excuse.  Just because it isn't sexy doesn't mean it isn't important.  We all know, intuitively, that time spent maintaining tools will most likely prolong their lives, help them to function better, and actually even increase our enjoyment.  And yes, you read that last part right: a well-tuned tool is simply easier and more fun to use.  So why don't some of us give maintenance its due? 

For me, I think there are two answers, and maybe you can relate: 

           1) I'm just not in the habit of it and

           2) I never thought about exactly what to do, and when and how   

In this post, I'd like to tackle both of these issues, specifically as it pertains to the issue of lubrication, which all woodworking machines need to varying degrees.  Periodically lubricating tools also provides an opportunity to inspect for other possible problems, like loose or worn drive belts.

The heart of my newly adopted system- which I'm excited about, because it seems like something I can actually stick to!- is something that I'm calling the "Monthly Maintenance Spree".  It really only takes about 10 or 15 minutes, but it gives me a chance to take a look at each of my major machines and lube up anything that needs it.  It is a pretty intuitive process- common sense dictates that just about anything that slides, threads, or moves against something else probably needs some lube.  That said, I don't generally concern myself with bearings, because my machines are newer and incorporate sealed bearings, and a bad bearing is most likely to be identified by uneven movement, vibration, and noise.  I mostly think about the daily "wear and tear" spots that need attention.  And in a woodshop, this means that there's usually plenty of sawdust around, so I make sure to choose a lube that goes on dry to the touch- this ensures that is isn't a magnet for sawdust.  Check the labels, because they're not all created equal.

Have a look at your bandsaw- I bet there are a bunch of
places that could use some love.  I could barely turn
the tensioning knob before I lubed up the threads.
Afterward: cha-ching!

The first time I maintained the sliding rails on my
compound miter saw, I was humbled- how had I
been so neglectful before?  Soooooo worth it.

Most planers have a set of threaded rods that the cutting head raises and lowers
on.  Overtime, they tend to get covered in sawdust, so a quick clean-out
works wonders.

It isn't pretty, but my drill press keeps on ticking.  I
need to remove some surface rust (that's a whole
'nother story) but a few seconds spent lubing it up
will prevent things from getting any worse.

My jointer has a million little bolts and rods that control the position of the fence.
Go ahead and give them a little lube, too.

Jointer fences usually slide in and out on a keyed casting of some sort.  Anytime
you have a situation like this where two surfaces slide against each other, that's
a good place for some lubrication.

Disclosure: I received, for free, the 3-in-ONE oil that I used in this blog post.  That said, every word of the post comes from my own experiences in the workshop.  I love this stuff and will happily buy more once this container runs out. 

For more information on 3-in-ONE oil (they've got a larger range of products than you might realize) click the link below:

http://www.3inone.com/

PureShield Protect: An Amazing Finish for Wood

I recently tried out Pureshield Protect, a new acrylic clear-coat product from PureColor.  To cut to the chase: I was blown away.  I've used acrylic (often known as water-based) finishes for years, and I've tried all of the manufacturers that I could get my hands on.  But none have performed this well.  Here's what I liked about it:

1) The product itself is much thicker than any other products in its class- this allowed me to apply 2 coats and achieve a level of finish that felt more substantial than 4 coats of other products.

2) The finish self-leveled really smoothly.  I couldn't get brush marks to show up, even when I tried.

3) The build quality of the finish feels great- this is hard to describe, but it feels thick and waxy, without looking like a layer of plastic on top of the wood.

As you can see from the picture at the top of this post, the product comes in a box-
 well, in a bag inside of a box- and you just pour it into a container and brush it on.

As with any finish, I suggest making a sample to see how the finish will look on
your project.  I hadn't expected the color to pop so much in this old, reclaimed
wood, but I loved it.  I scuff-sanded the piece with 220grit paper between coats.

Here's the before photo: the reclaimed wood in this
bench was kind of cool, but it looked dirty and
dingy and the colors were pretty lifeless.

After 2 coats of PureShield Protect, the bench was totally transformed.  I now want to use this stuff ALL THE TIME!  It is
an amazing finish that I highly recommend.  Full disclosure: PureColor sent me a kit to try out, but my review is unbiased.
 I couldn't recommend something that I don't love.

Here's a couple of links to learn more:

PureShield by PureColor on Amazon

PureColor's website

Making a Mallet with a Round Tenon Cutter

I've been wanting to make a mallet for ages now, but never got around to it 'til now.  Today I got a new toy (aka, tool) that I was itching to test out, and a mallet seemed like a good fit for the job.  I picked up a round tenon cutter at a local tool supply company.  They cost $20-30, and are available in a variety of sizes.  I went for the 3/4" diameter one, as I have some projects in mind where I think 3/4" tenons will work out just right.  Be advised that these cutters require a drill with a 1/2" chuck, but other than that, they're a snap to use.  I'll provide a couple of tips below.

I started with a seasoned chunk of oak that I was given by the good
folks at a local hardwood supplier.  It was big enough for a couple
 of mallets, really, and in hindsight I wish I had made an extra.

You're going to see lots of cordless tools in this pic- our power was
out on the day I did this project, so I couldn't rely on my bigger
tools as I usually would.  I used a circular saw to rip a 1" x 1"
handle blank from a piece of roughsawn oak.  This isn't the kind
of project that requires fastidiousness at every step, so a
circular-saw-rip was perfectly fine.

The chunk of wood that I used for the head of the mallet had
originally been part of a pallet or shipping skid, so it had a couple
of "fins" that protruded on the edges; I sawed them off with the
circular saw.

A block plane leveled the remains of the fins, creating a
(basically) rectilinear blank.

A simple crosscut gave me a 5" long blank for the head of the mallet.

I used a spade bit to drill a hole in the head.  I usually would've
used a drill press, but with no power... this method worked
just fine.

Here's my big tip for using a round tenon cutter like this- make
sure to ease the leading edges a bit with a block plane, rasp, or
sander.  It'll make it easy for the cutter to get a purchase on
the blank without slipping.

Again, a 1/2" drill is essential.  I found that it worked best for me
on the faster speed setting, and I pulsed the trigger a bit rather
than going all-out.

I didn't measure, but the cutter has about a 3" capacity, which is
pretty impressive.  It cut the tenon in seconds, and it was
really clean and even.

The cutter actually created kind of a burnished finish- I
scuffed it up with some sandpaper afterwards, under the
theory that it might help create a better glue bond.

Its a simple project, but that's part of what makes it so satisfying.

I used a handsaw to cut a groove into the end
of the tenon.  I went down about 1.5".

Here's a pic of the spline, after being pounded into the groove.
Leaving the tenon exposed is just an aesthetic choice, but I do
really like it that way.

I used planes and sandpaper to  create a comfortable profile on the handle, but
other than that, I kept the overall feel of the mallet kind of rough.  I'm not fussy
in my approach to tools, so this one suits me rather nicely.

Installing Soft-Close Undermount Drawer Slides

When I started building furniture and cabinetry- this was about 20 years ago- side-mounted ball-bearing slides were about the best thing you could get your hands on.  Things have really changed since then.  The big watershed moment occurred when I saw Blum's first soft-close undermounts: they seemed like magic, frankly.  The only trick was that they seemed, well, tricky. Installing them required a lot more planning and there were a lot more ways to screw things up.  So it was a bit of an uphill battle figuring them out, but the good news is, once you know what you're doing, they're actually not all that hard to use, and it is really satisfying when you get it right.  In this post I'll point out my method for installing soft-close undermounts; it is worth mentioning that the process applies to all of the many brands that I've tried.  By now, a ton of companies have introduced their own version of the original product, and they all seem to go in about the same.

In terms of price, I find that I can buy 21" undermount slides for anywhere from $15-$30 in my area (Northern Utah).  While I haven't found it necessary to go for an all-out splurge, a couple of features are nice to have and make it worth spending a couple of extra bucks.  I usually get slides that feature 4-way adjustment of the drawer fronts (this allows you to move them side-to-side a little bit) and an elongated hole at the back to accomodate wood movement when used with solid wood cabinetry.  I don't endorse any particular brand, so I suggest just looking around and seeing what looks good to you.

Build your drawers anyway you'd like- just make sure the bottom is set
into a groove that begins 1/2" from the bottom of the drawer stock.

This drawer was super simple- the parts were glued and pinned together
with brad nails.  Dovetails are nice but I didn't use 'em this time.

Make sure the drawer is square by measuring across the diagonals.
Don't use a square, it is not up for the job.  On a small assembly
of this size the diagonals have to match exactly- even a 1/16"
variation can cause misalignments later on.

To accommodate the drawer slides, the drawers need to be notched at the back.
I measure in 1 3/4".  A coping or jig saw works just fine.

The slides are a cinch to install.  They need to be inset from
the front edge (consult the manufacturer's instructions for the
exact dimension).  In this case, I added 3/4" because the drawer
fronts were inset from (i.e. flush with) the cabinet sides, top, and bottom.
The sides are secured with 3/4" screws.

At this point, I gently slide the drawer into
place.  This is because the slides have little
prongs on the back that will poke into the
back of the drawer back.

When you remove the drawer, you'll see a
pair of little dimples.  That's the spot to
drill 5/16" diameter holes to accommodate
the prongs.

Here's the drawer back with the holes drilled.

In addition to the metal slides, you'll also need to install a pair
of mounting clips (they're mirror-images of each other, so you'll
have a left side and a right side.  They go on the underside of
the drawer, are attached with a couple of screws.  You'll also see
 a couple of adjustments that might come in handy later and a set
of release levers that you can use to get the drawer out.

Now the drawer should function normally.  Just
push it gently back into place.  You should hear
a pair of clicks as the mounting clips engage
with the slides.

To install the first drawer front, I use a clamp and/or shims.
My other favorite trick of the trade is to use double-sided tape-
with the tape adhered to one surface, just line up the front
and push it into place.

With the drawer front temporarily aligned, I attach it with screws
through the backside.

The second set of slides is installed in the
same way.  In this case, I used a block of
wood that I ripped to the width that I
needed so that I could position the next
drawer at the right height.  Sometimes
there's some wiggle room in this part of the
 operation, and other times the tolerances are
quite precise.

Getting the edges inset drawer fronts properly aligned can
take a bit of work.  A belt sander and random orbit
usually work for me.

Once everything looked shipshape, I varnished
the drawer fronts.

A Simple & Practical Workbench that Looks Good too

I recently built this bench for a friend.  It was quick and easy, and didn't cost a ton either.  I used a sheet of 3/4" plywood, which ran me $25, then 4 2x4's (10' long) which were $5 each.  I also used 16 5" Timber-Lok lag bolts (more on those in a minute) which were under a buck apiece.  So, the grand total was about $60, and I definitely have less than 2 hours in it.  I didn't manage to get a ton of detail shots during construction, so feel free to ask if you have any questions.

The finished bench was 60" long x 24"x deep x 34" high.  Vary the dimensions as you wish!

I began by cutting the 2x4's to length on my mitersaw.  I cut 4 uprights @ 27" long, and 4 crossbars at 24".  These were for the sub-assemblies that went at the end of the bench.  I joined the parts with Dominos, but 1/2" dowels would be a good choice too. I cut the ends of the crossbars at a 10 degree angle because I like the look but you could skip this step.

Once the glue dried on the ends, I remove them from the clamps and cut 4 stretchers to 54" long.  One pair went in at the top of the bench, and the other pair went in lower down, about 12" from the floor.  I used 5" long Timber-Lok lag bolts to secure the stretchers.  They have big, beefy threads that really make for a strong connection.

Bench heights are an enormously subjective thing- 33"-38" is generally considered the usual range.  I'm 5'8 and like a bench that is around 34-35" if that helps at all.  When in doubt, measure some of the work surfaces you already have and see what changes you might make.

Design Workshop: The Value of Prototypes

Even though I'm a pretty experienced furniture maker, I still love making prototypes.  The reasons for this are simple: while I'm never short on design inspiration, I don't always know how some of the details should shape up, or if something will look as good in reality as it does in my head.  In light of these realities, building prototypes can be one of the best ways I know to fill in the blanks during the design process.  I also find it to be a ton of fun- in a short amount of time, I can create something tangible while minimizing the tedium.  It is also a great way to use up old scraps (I usually use plywood, but feel free to use cardboard, styrofoam, or whatever else works for you).  In some cases, I've been able to use "nice enough" materials like reclaimed wood to end up with a usable piece in the end.  This is a win-win in my book, kind of a two-for-the-price-of-one.

Of course, not all of my projects require prototypes: its usually pretty to imagine the desired end result and the steps that it'll take to get there, so I'm all about the path of least resistance in these cases.  Sometimes, though, a prototype is invaluable.  For furniture in particular, I've found that building prototypes can help me to:

      -think of new possibilities that I never would've thought of otherwise
      -save money by making my mistakes on the cheap materials instead of the good stuff
      -refine a design by constructing a number of variations that I can compare
      -adjust the measurements, proportions, angles, and curves that came from my original sketches
      -develop designs (especially chairs) that are truly comfortable to sit on
      -demonstrate my vision and skill to my clients during the design/fabrication process

And since a picture is worth a thousand words, the following photos will demonstrate some of the ways that I use prototypes on a regular basis:

I find prototypes to be essential for
 new chair designs.  Comfort rules!

When building a set of pieces, it is really
helpful to see how they'll look together.

I keep joinery super simple on prototypes- screws and Dominos
usually do the trick. 

I made several different variations on this chair back.  This
one had a cutout, which I ultimately rejected.

Once I like the look and feel of a prototype,
I take measurements from it so I can build
the finished piece.  I don't worry about
knowing the angles early on in the process
but it matters later on.

Here's a close cousin of the prototype: the
actual size templates that I used to make
the finished chairs.  I started with a
prototype, then traced the side to
make these patterns. 

And lest I forget... sometimes a full-scale
drawing really helps.  You can see that
I was working on the transitions here.
Fun stuff!