|I started with a seasoned chunk of oak that I was given by the good|
folks at a local hardwood supplier. It was big enough for a couple
of mallets, really, and in hindsight I wish I had made an extra.
|The chunk of wood that I used for the head of the mallet had|
originally been part of a pallet or shipping skid, so it had a couple
of "fins" that protruded on the edges; I sawed them off with the
|A block plane leveled the remains of the fins, creating a|
(basically) rectilinear blank.
|A simple crosscut gave me a 5" long blank for the head of the mallet.|
|I used a spade bit to drill a hole in the head. I usually would've|
used a drill press, but with no power... this method worked
|Here's my big tip for using a round tenon cutter like this- make|
sure to ease the leading edges a bit with a block plane, rasp, or
sander. It'll make it easy for the cutter to get a purchase on
the blank without slipping.
|Again, a 1/2" drill is essential. I found that it worked best for me|
on the faster speed setting, and I pulsed the trigger a bit rather
than going all-out.
|I didn't measure, but the cutter has about a 3" capacity, which is|
pretty impressive. It cut the tenon in seconds, and it was
really clean and even.
|The cutter actually created kind of a burnished finish- I|
scuffed it up with some sandpaper afterwards, under the
theory that it might help create a better glue bond.
|Its a simple project, but that's part of what makes it so satisfying.|
|I used a handsaw to cut a groove into the end|
of the tenon. I went down about 1.5".
|Here's a pic of the spline, after being pounded into the groove.|
Leaving the tenon exposed is just an aesthetic choice, but I do
really like it that way.
|I used planes and sandpaper to create a comfortable profile on the handle, but|
other than that, I kept the overall feel of the mallet kind of rough. I'm not fussy
in my approach to tools, so this one suits me rather nicely.